duncan

Not sure about the prop slip thingy - I don't get much with a large duo prop untill the turbo /revs combination is giving near max power capability, and even then it's slight. Re OBs I think you are more on the right lines with gearing issues than torque requirements as a core difference. Gearing allows you to optomise engine output to use - taking the upgrades to that Zetec refered to above the major HP enhancements are going to be at the higher revs (where bby definition you get more HP but thats another thing....) and nover a narrower band. To transfer this to a boat you are going to need a larger (bulky/drag heavy/performance limiting) gearbox just to stand still performance wise so why bother? Outdrives and OBs with adjustable trim are effectively providing an element of effictively gearing (sort of) by directing thrust and of course surface drives are able to utilise the ultimate controlled prop slip to achieve the same thing. Generally car engines produce less power at lower revs but rev higher (producing better HP) because they deliver drive via variable gears.

Not sure what you what to be 'in between' - many spinning rods would equate to a 6lb class rod and some would do a good impression of a 12lb class!

well I am desperate to get afloat but, like you, want to use my boat! If there is any chance of a window on Saturday I will be out from Poole..........

you could try an oxalic acid based cleaner (or the actual stuff) - Y10 as an example - and it may well take out the staining

about Ireland..........

make a nice bait that will - don't forget the extra 8 oz of lead to get a bait like that on the bottom in a tide!

there has been a demand on this forum for time to time so I thought I would post this link - feel free to mention me (same forum name there) VHF with cables etc 50 quid

Welcome Steve, In rougher seas radar settings will naturally be set by an operator to ensure a true echo stands out ie the clutter setting will be increased. You will disappear because you don't stand out. A radar enhancement like See Me will result in you showing intermittently amongst waves as line of sights permits but the alloy thingy isn;t realy going to be that much good for a small craft relative to a yacht raising it high up so that when it is at an efficient angle it is being seen and will show. In calm seas and when settings are lower you will show as a blip - and on a military set you should be very well defined in any event. Alloy thing might help a bit as it should be in view as for above but my basic tests didn't differentiate between those with and without at similar ranges and boats. I have radar because I would have seen Tyne before 50 yds even if she wouldn't see me! Re your last paragraph I couldn't agree more! Incidents are for avoiding not arguing afterwards

must have caught the 22 before I joined just like the damm coalfish was really hoping to get down this weekend but Saturday just isn't looking inviting weather yet

well done James - I am sure you will do well in the final whatever. if it's fished on a points basis the others won't stand a chance!

in calm conditions (the sort we would normally want to sit out at night in) you will show up on radar quite clearly (you do already on mine anyway!!!). I don't notice much difference from the static type radar reflectors - I ran round the harbour lookign for anchored boats to check this when I first fitted it.... They have obviously continued to update the list from when Phaeton had her check in 2001 but an Epirb seems way ott! We had the tender on weaver davits at the time but (obviously) leave it behind when we go fishing! Additional suggestion from the seacheck that we do now carry is black binliners - if you get a casulaty out the water it's better to wrap them in one or two than strip them (certain pop stars excluded) as they will quickly develop a warm layer of wet clothing. Item they didn't have on their list was a tide table!!!!!!!!!!!! which prompted much discussion and embarassment on their side. Definitely worth doing for the chat more than the list - makes you think.

Martin - as I understand it the primary reason for the chain is to avoid chafe. With a Bruce being so sensitive to the angle of pull you have 2 choices - 1. Always use a scope of 6:1 or 2. cheat a bit and use a slightly longer/heavier bit of chain! As you say the equation works out well when considering an Alderney ring too.

yep was jsut trying to find an independant view! If you want the full specs then this page http://www.bruceanchor.co.uk/cast.htm gives you anything and everthing re Bruce/Claw (but I would take the differences between Bruce and any copy with a pinch of salt as some are excellent, North Anchors, and some poor). I am also loath to take manufactures minimums at face value too as they have a vested interest in the figures. Cynic - moi? Whatever - perfect system IMHO for Newboy would be 5kg Claw, 10m / 8mm chain and 200m 10mm anchorplait. Chain could be switched to 6mm (weight) and the rode to 3 strand (price)and /or 100m (I'm never going to fish deep water).

guide here http://www.jimmygreen.co.uk/chandlery/anchors.htm would tend to back 5 kg Bruce/Claw. I would favour a 5kg with 10m / 8mm chain over a 7.5kg on 6mm chain, or shorter length, when using these anchors. As Adam says they are sensitive to the angle of pull on the stock which works for us if used properly! Basically you can get the damm thing out of even thick clay by shortening up on it and letting wave action work it out. 7.5kg with 10m /8mm chain will weigh in at a total of 22.5kg which is starting to get a little heavy for easy handling - but still managable.

DavidUK did raise it on the 18th April but it's long since dropped of my active threads - although it's in my favorites. I find it a useful way to give approximate positions of marks to others when discussing catches (usually theirs!)

I have been using both in an effort to 'restore' car paint work recently - living next to a railway I get electric conductivity grease followed by metal brake dust forming a kind a rough top coat to paintwork!!!!! Orbital does better with the various grades of cutting compound, the polishers are pretty fool proof at buffing. One small point - don't waste time and effort getting it back to a beautifully waxed polish if you intend to antifoul! Sounds obvious but I have know people do it without thinking!

given that that stuff is moving east, and at this stage it's not really an issue of what it's going to be like but when it arrives, I seriously suggest Sunday's a day to earn not spend brownie points! I would love to be able to say that I have it on good authority that the whole of next weekend will be a SW 1-2, the cod will be on the spoil grounds in numbers competing with huge numbers of rays and conger for baits, and a lorry will shed it's load of squid on the A35.Friday night........but I can't so I will be earning on the off chance anyway

http://theyr.net/cg/cny/I1bc8cd/F=js*Y*v*0...ngl_Southampton

can't resist trying to shorten some of the above - all of which I agree except the chain bit (see later) GPS gives you your position as coordinates you plot these onto a chart to find out where you actually are, or from a chart to the GPS to tell it where you want to go (as you point out most allow you to store your current position at any time as a shortcut to this process) a plotter, and most are GPS/Plotters but we have go so used to them they are now called plotters, does both steps at once and plots your current position onto it's electronic record (chart) of the area and displays the result to you looking like a chart on your screen. the more detailed the resolution and the more colours or shades of grey available the easier the image is to read and understand quickly. Older colour plotters don't enable you to spot contour lines as easily as Black on white but they show up the land much better (green not blue!). Not an issue on any new unit I am aware of on the market right now. re chain 1.5 times boat length is commonly listed and I would have thought 10m of 6mm chain to a 5kg bruce a good setup and not too heavy to handle easily. add 3 times the greatest depth you plan to anchor in as an absolute minimum but 5x would be my guideline. hte M and claw Bruce copies are cheap in that size, and I wouldn't pay the premium for a forged anchor, but I would pay out for a roll of 10mm anchorplait.

well they take a 25lb blonde but that's the limit of my testing! Also they do suffer from the 'thorns' of rays a bit too............

what's wrong with a supermarket carrier bag - the bag for life things?

Paul, You haven't got a link to a higher resolution copy of No 3 have you?

although the obvious comment would revolve around the well known (to beach anglers) fact that all the decent fish stay just outside casting distance.......I suspect that it has more to do with the contours of the beach than time of day.

think Cobbs has got rid of it's gate/bar mike....... nice looking boat Newboy - like the rod holders on the roof, really usefull to keep them out the way. I always seem to have a few getting in the way on the deck etc

I've still got one of those yellow see through (not that clear now) thingys for connecting between cap/plug and showing spark. Invaluable - unless you have a suker with you prepared to hold whilst you pull! Concerned about reference to more than one plug and fuel tank conectors earlier in thread - surely it's a single cylinder and has an integral tank?