Adam F

The sandard deck on the 165's is just plain fibreglass - whilst this is fairly tough and smooth to walk on, and non-slip is doesnt wear that well, esp. when you use the boat alot - things such as lead buckets and tackle boxes have a habit of scratching the deck. I was looking at the bigger Warriors and notice that they have Treadmaster fitted. I have considered this, and whilst it looks very smart, and would achieve the finish I am after - it is blo%$dy expensive!

I get a very slight 'buzzing' from my new VHF set...any ideas? I didnt with the old set, and it is mounted in exactly the same place and in the same fashion. Paul D mentioned it could be where I have the data, power and ariel cables all routed through the same trunking?? What can I do if this is the case, as I dont have many options re. running the cables else where. Adam

I can link mine up so that it achived the same thing - I havent looked into it yet, but the Garmin 182c has the ability I think. Adam

Whilst out on the boat training on Sunday I took the oppertunity to try mt new DSC Icom VHF out. Having never used the DSC function before I was a little unsure, but literly 30 seconds of reading the instructions I was away! I entered Loyal Royals's MMSI number into the radios address book under 'Loyal'. Making a call to mark was then a simple matter of looking up his number ( 2 button pushes) selecting this ( 1 button) and making the call (2 buttons) so all in 5 pushes taking about 5 seconds. This then 'rings' marks VHF until he answers me. It then switches his radio to the one that I pre-designated (Ch6) - I then get a reply on my VHF to tell me he has aknowledged me. We can then begin normal VHF conversation. A superb idea - much quicker than using a manual call, and it doesnt hog the radio waves, as it uses Ch70 and a digital call. As the cost of DSC has now come down to the level of normal VHF and it is now law that ALL VHF's made now must have DSC - I would urge you all to consider this fantastic new technology. Adam

Its OK! - Balances things out a little....Rach keeps threatening to register! Anyway the jokes couldnt have been worse than Jack's!!

The TLD15 is much bigger than the 7000 - if they did one it would probably be about 8000 sized. It has much bigger gears and a bigger spool capacity. I would say the TLD15 suits rough ground work and light wrecking - if you want a reel for heavy wrecking then go for the TLD20. I have one of each if you want to look before you buy. Adam

Martin - if you have some Magnet spare, I know have a new freezer and would like to try a bit out? Have you any spare? Adam

Well, for the 3rd time in three years, Garmin Europe have exceeded expectations. This year the anti-reflective coating on my 182C colour plotter had begun to wear off - mainly due t me not reading the instructions and using an amonia based cleaner. I took it back to Garmin in Romsey last week and was honest in my actions - they replaced the unit for a brand new one there and then FOC, AND... renewed the warrenty! Thanks again Garmin - not often these days that you see service like that...and it goes a long way. Adam

As others have said - without knowing it is difficult to tell. Cracks on the transom, can be bad news - often the forces from the outboard can inflict pressure on any weak points and thus cause cracking - certianly one of the first things I always look for on a boat when looking to buy is whether or not any cracks are apparent on the transom. Alternativly it could just be a surface crack and mearly cosmetic - maybe marking the ends and monitoring its progress would be a god idea. Adam

Ditto for me Alun! If Rich wants the 700 he is welcome - I was tempted, until it slipped out to the FPO last night. Aparently I have too many reels already!.... Ta Adam

If the weather stays as good as the last few days, I may also take BW out with Rach for a few hours. ...Its either that or spend the day lying on my back ....sanding a polishing a bit more of BW's hull... Ill see in the morning! Adam

Sam, I may go out on either Tues,Weds or Thurs weather dependant. Ill let you know. Adam

Wedger, No club members have one - but Sean who is registered under the same name on this site has just bought a brand new Day Angler 20 with and inboard - PM him for info. I suspect the same as Bob - the condition is usually indicative of how the rest of the boat has been looked after - if the underside is a bit flakey then who knows about the engine etc. If you really want to know, I would take someone who knows a bit about boat construction etc for a professional opinion. AF

Just a reminder in case anyone forgets!!

What a beaut! Rach - Stick the house on the market!!...we're down grading!

Charlie, I misunderstood you on the tubing issue - I thought you were talking about polyuerthene tubing - i.e rigid...polythene tubing? hmmmm im not too sure Ill have a think. Adam

After a very kind invitation from Andy and Jack Prosser, I headed out on Pal-O-Mine, and Arvor 25 for a spot of congering today. The weather couldnt have been better, the winds died all day leaving glorious sunshine and smooth seas. After the problems Andy and Jack had a few weeks ago finding the wreck and loosing an anchor I offered to come along and try and advise a little. We found the wreck pretty much straight away, and it looked to be holding a few pollock. After a few fishless drifts the tide was dying away, so it was down with the hook to have a go at the conger. Unfortunatly we only had 180' of warp onboard after loosing a bit the other week, seeing as the wreck lies in 110', anchoring was going to be very tricky - I motored a decent distance uptide to aviod the wreck and down went the hook. We were OK for about 20 mins, then we started to slip - yep, you guessed it - straight into 15,000 tones of steel! With such a short warp - retreaving the anchor with the buoy was also next to useless. Anyway after about 10 mins the wreck cut the warp of for us - so it was back to drifting. Personally I really enjoyed taking the skippers role on such a big and lovely vessel, we had about 20 drifts and dispite plenty of takes only landed 2 pollock. We then came into the back of St Albans where we found a pot buoy to latch onto - but with it being so early in the year, we soon called it a day. Sorry about the anchor chaps, but thanks for a lovely day - nice boat and good company. PS: When you do replace the anchor and warp, Id recommend a full coil of rope - about 450-500'...on a boat of that size and esp. when on a wreck it gives you much more flexibilty and is also safer. Regards Adam

Pro Tackle is actually Loni's - and is owned by the other shop in New Miton. I have always had decent baot from there, maybe just a poor batch. Bournemouth Fishing Lodge in Moordown is probably the next nearest - Neil usually has decent bait also. Adam

I sort of follow the plan, but am struggling on one point - So you have these plastic tubes mounted on the stern, pointing down...you simply then just load up a sausage of Magnet and send it down the tube to the bottom? Presumably the magnet will be frozen? - if so, here is my problem - ice floats, hence when you drop the frozen magnet into the water it will not sink?? Adam

Works better out aloud... Man walks into a bar with a giraffe on a lead. He orders a pint and the giraffe curls up infront of the fire and falls asleep... Bartender: 'Are you going to leave that lying there? Man: Its not a lion, its a giraffe! ....Ill get me coat!

Patenoster for then the tide is slack and the fish come up of the bottom, and the flowing rig for when the tide is running.

I can source plastic tubing from 1/2" all the way up to 12" from work for pennies if anyone wants any.

Helpful tips for this time of year: 2 and 4 stroke - Applicable for overwintering \Servicing _____________________________________________ Run the engine on muffs for at least 5 mins to clean out salt and to warm it up. Have a look at the flow from the 'pee' pipe, if it is dribbling either you have salt deposits blocking the engine waterways or you need a new water pump impeller. Remove the plugs and squirt in some fogging oil ( Quicksilver Winterising is one ), turn engine over to distribute oil and replace the plugs. When you fire up next time run engine until it runs clean and then replace plugs. The old ones are then spares. These plugs are known to be good whereas a new plug from the box could be faulty. Remove top and bottom slotted screws on gearbox bullett. Drain gearbox oil, if it is clear you are OK, if it is milky get help. Replace by filling from the bottom hole and when it comes out of the top hole it is full. Get the bottom pug in quickly followed by the top. At the bottom of each carb there is a brass nut, undo it 1/2 turn and fuel will come out. Drain all the fuel from each carb starting at the top. Nip the nuts up afterwards. Take off the prop and grease the splines, check you havn't got anything round the shaft, bit of line trapped there can work under the gearbox oil seal and cause a world of grief. Grease all points on the engine with a grease gun filled with a lime based grease and give the steering tube a squirt with Wurth spray grease when fully extended. Store in the fully retracted position to stop water ingress into the inner tube. Inside the cable is all mild steel. Check the anodes on the engine, any that are 50% gone should be replaced. Give the engine an all over squirt with Duck oil, or WD at a pinch. A squirt of Wurth on all the moving linkages is worth while 4 stroke only, ____________ Drop the engine oil and remove the oil filter, replace filter and top up with fresh oil. Use the oil recomended by the mnufacturer, it is dearer than normal 4 stroke oil but contains additional addatives for marine use. It is a once a year cost so not worth saving a few bob IMHO. General _______ Give the outside a good wash down and dry, touch in any paint chips and when all dry give the exterior a coat of wax polish. Leave this on without polishing to protect the paintwork from the weather. A wash over and polish next time you use it will bring it up to spec. Take the battery out of the boat and stand on plenty of newspaper in a shed, trickle charge once a month. Top up your fuel tanks to the top and close the breathers to stop water ingress and condensation. OR empty them completely and store upside down with the caps removed. Check the hoses and bulbs or signs of cracking, perishing. Check the fittings at the ends of the fuel lines, especially the 'O'ring seals. any damage replace them. Take all the removable electrics off the boat, wrap in a towel and hide at the back of the airing cupboard, it will do them good. All the electrical connections will benefit from a dab of vaseline. Have a look at the end of the ariel co ax cable that goes into the VHF, if it is black the conducter is corroded. Cut it back to fresh metal and remake the connection. It is surprising how many VHF faults are down to this. Check your flares are still in date and any auto inflate life jackets are in good nick. Check the CO2 cannisters are tight, they tend to work loose with the engine vibes. Take the rope off your boat and give it a wash in warm water and washing powder, it picks up loads of sand and this causes wear inside the rope. Rinse in plenty of cold water and coil, hang it in a shed out of direct sunlight to dry. Check all the shackles on the anchor gear are nipped up and not rusty. Wash the trailer with warm soapy water to get rid of salt, Check the wheel bearings, rock the tyres side to side any play replace the bearings. While the trailer is jacked up spin the wheels, any graunching, replce the bearings. Take the bearings out clean them and check, if any signs of rust at all, replace and regrease. Check the tyres for damage and if you are leaving the boat for any length of time jack up and block off, this gives the tyres/ suspension a rest and stops flats forming on tyres. Grease the tow hitch and linkages. Any signs of rust on the trailer metalwork will benift from a wire brushing and a coat of a Zink rich primer followed by a cold galvanising paint. The trailer rollers should be checked for flats and the pivot pins dosed with Wurth spray grease. All I can think of but I am sure I have missed plenty, someone will fill in the blanks If you get stuck on anything shout. Sorry for the length of the post

Hi Mike - I see you found our site! Good to see you chaps out with us on Sat, and even more chuffed that you managed to find a few chunky plaice. Tight Lines Adam F

Graham Pullen detailed a 4 pint dropper made from a roses chocolates tin about 2 years ago in BFM - that would do the job!