great white

If the engine has not been made with electric start it will not have the starter motor or the other associated wireing, controls, key switch etc It may well have wiring to run a charging circuit, but in my opinion changing an old engine to electric start may be more costly. than upgrading. Check with a Mariner agent, Select marine is one of our sponsors and Tony is always willing to discuss things with Members Charlie

Good luck with the sale Bob I am sure you are right that the first serious viewer will take her I hope you are enjoying selecting her replacement, If you start the season boatless you are welcome to grab a trip with us. Charlie

good luck dave and enjoy looking for a newl boat Charlie

another

I will try and attach a picture of the yard yesterday Charlie

HAPPY BIRTHDAY DAN I hope that someone can arrange for the wind to ease so I can take you fishing soon. Have a good day CU later Dad

Hi and welcome Charlie

Happy Birthday Dean I hope you are having a good one I doubt even you will be fishing in this weather Charlie

The boatyard and shed at work were flooded today The highest anyone had seen at the Club for 18 years Charlie

North Haven Yacht Club, used to be a good starter for inexpensive moorings But I see they are having a new clubhouse built so Club prices may well have gone up. Charlie

Adam It looks like you need to consider getting a boat with effiecient propulsion and "Inefficient heater" Charlie

Just received this at work Looks like its time to fit a diesel heater Charlie Wednesday 5th March 2008 RED DIESEL UPDATE Last week, Government made an announcement regarding the outcomes of the consultation on Red Diesel. Key features of the new scheme for charging duty on marine diesel to be introduced by Her Majesty

Good luck with the sale Adam and the search for her replacement charlie

Hi James and welcome The more you join in the more you will get out of it. there is an awfull lot of experiance and knowledge to tap in to. Look forward to meeting you at a Club event Charlie

Great service well worth a mention Glad to see that AWol is looking good again Charlie

Hi Alan nice to chat on Wed and I am not at all sad that I could not join you in the bay instead of going back to work [Honest] I hope that some of the hints were usefull If you are doing the splice put two strands in from 1 side of the chain link and the other strand from the opposite side, then splice from there. It stops the splce bing too thick and jamming in the windlass Charlie

Nice one Paul

My setup struggled to go in again yesterday in the big tides. so I think its time for a bit more chain or another type of anchor. Charlie

If you are fitting a plywood pad on the deck I have loads of the fixings used by boatbuilders instead of nuts they are fitted under the pad and have spikes that cut into the ply and prevent turning as the machine screw fixings are tightened. Charlie

Hi Alan I will try and add some hints to help, but the best idea may be to offer to take you out or to come onbosrd with you to try and offer advice. I also have both systems, and in nearly all fishing use the heavier anchor chain and alderney ring. The stowage for my main rope is a cockpit locker, the Buoy is attached to teh ring and the anchor warp passed through prior to attaching the chain and anchor. when in position the anchor is lowered from the cockpit, after it hits the bottom the warp is taken fwd while still paying out and under no load, it comes on deck via a fairlead, around the stem post and fwd over the bow roller. As we drift back and are in position the warp is tied off on the spring cleat. When lifting I take the tension off the warp with the engine and release the warp from the bow and motor around the buoy with the warp attached to the spring cleat. Then motor off untill the anchor is up in the alderney ring Its then just a case of motoring the boat uptide of the buoy and pulling in a fairly light loaded warp. I am fortunate enough to have picked a big bow roller that can be used in this way without removing the bruce anchor on the windlas system. When I first launched I strted by removing the bruce which I have now stopped doing as it is good to always have this rigged, and it means the other anchor can be stowed on our way in at the end of a day. I hope that all amkes sense as i said earlier its easier to show than discribe. Even with the boat alongside My system is always dropped and recovered on teh stbd side, but that has never been a problem in 15 years using this technique on GW. Charlie

I must agree with Duncan again Its abalance of what you gain and what it costs in terms of work to the boat costs and balance of the boat ashore and afloat. I have the system and so far I have only used it once outside the harbour. It does have its uses and in the shallows of the harbour when used on all chain its great to start the engine and push the switch on the dash to lift the anchor from the helm position. Charlie

Anyone going out at the weekend And if so what are the target species? Charlie

I had put it down to a bad day But another skipper reminded me that a lot of shingle dredging has been done in that area recently, so the ground may have been disturbed. The anchor did come up covered in clay We hope to get out on Sunday and will see how it goes then Charlie

One of our sponsors Marine Electronic Services would be more than happy to discuss the various units with you They are in the same building as Tom in Salterns so I am sure you have seen their shop 01202 707007 I believe is the number. As coddy says you can get a lot of personal choices on here [Mine is Lowrance and Navionics Gold] but they have a wide range to discuss and will offer Members discount. Charlie

Hi Craig Have you checked with quicksilver if it is an option to fit one? If so they will have a model to suggest I have one on the bow of alfresco it is a fairly heavy unit with a gypsy to take 12 to 14mm rope and calibrated 9.5mm chain, with deck and console controls. I would suggest talking to suppliers about one to suit the size of rope and chain you use and matching the power and size to what you use. Check with Pete at Quay West Chandlers I am sure he can help you out. You will need to run heavy cable to and from the unit as well as suitable controls so remember to allow for the cost and weight of those, and if it is self stowing you will need a fairly large locker inside the boat for the warp and chain to run into. Fitting a windlass to the bow adds a lot of fwd weight both on the water and on the trailer, so please remember to take that into account And as you say you may have to beef up the fwd deck to give the strenth and stiffness you require. Hope that helps Charlie