Newboy

Anyone know when and where is the next one in the south? I need a few items for my boat, namely rod holders (the removable type), fuel tanks, trim tab/fins. Thanks

Not sure how the brake work on your trailer, but most shoe brake work on springs. I would have thought all these dunking into salt water could well have made it seized up. It's pretty easy to do once you have seen it done. It's years since I last did one and the memory is a little hazy. Mike will probably be able to help more.

I have 2x5g tank but one of it will go with the boat and I'll need to get a couple of new one. Off to the next boat jumble to get 2 more tanks.

I'm thinking of making some form of deckwash/hosedown, like the one Martin has on his boat. Any idea how to make one? How about a small bilge pump 'dangles' over the side with a length of hose pipe?

I tried it last time I went out, caught a bass on it, although it was supplimenting a mackie strip. Not sure if it work on its own, been told it would. The good thing about it is that it takes up absolutely no room so it's worth carrying it in the tackle box and if you happen to run out of bait, there's the back up. Maybe we can do a test next time a group of us go out, some on strips and sone of us on normal bait.

Is a 23l tank big enough for most trips?

Do you mean this one? http://www.marine-hardware.co.uk/ Look under Deck & Hull Fittings in the on-line catalogue. However, I'm having a 1.6x0.8x0.2m 'roof rack' custom made by a local firm, using 25mm tube and with 6 rod holders all for

Don't forget to check the bearing its self, there is still a strong possibility that the problem is an overtight bearing. It's an easy peasy job to do, if your not too far from Kinson I'll pop round and do it if you want.. Mad Mike It could have been, but then he didn't adjust the bearing nut and it was working find before that. Unless the bearing was overtightened already and he never noticed in all this time.

I'd be very careful when taking out the hub and bearing. If you take the wheel off and the bearing (1/2 of it anyway) falls out, you could have got dirt and grits on the coasters and ruins the bearing. Can't give you hint on taking drum off, but when you put the bearing back in, tighten the nut gently, [use both hands] rock the wheel back and forth to make sure it's in probably and spin it to make sure it's smooth. Tighten the nut some more, rock it, spin it, repeat until it's hand tight. Now make sure it still spin freely, it not loosen it a little. Back it up to the next available pin hole postion and insert split pin, if you don't, one day you will find your wheel travel a lot quicker without the trailer . Never over tighten bearing, it's better to be loose than tight (as long as not too loose). I could be wrong but I don't think you need to take the bearing off to get to the drum. I remember when I was a lad, I changed the shoes on a mini and the metal drum [cover] is fixed on by 2 screws. Once unscrewed, the drum [cover] falls off and you should be able to see the brake shoes, springs etc. Paul was right the adjustment is at the back od the drum, like a square nut.

Yeah.... and how much of it goes straight to the treasury, in the form of duties and taxes? Maybe we are becoming the next cash cow after motorist.....

Jack the trailer up (with the boat) undo the hand brake. Rotate the wheel by hand, it should spin fairly smoothly/freely. Listen for any noises, good bearing should be whisper quiet, if it rumbles or grinding noise, change the bearing.

I don't really want anything bigger than 115, but it's getting very hard to find a good 75+. If I don't find anything in the next 2 weeks I might go for a new 70hp Tohatsu, it's a little less than what I would like but at least I would only have to sell my wife.......

So you are saying the chaps at Weymouth have bigger ones ......

The search for an outboard for my new boat is continuing. There's seem to be a shortage of good 75-135hp on affordable price at the moment. Going to look at a Mercury 100 tomorrow, but it is in Ascot and none of the local marine engineers (a handful) do inspections. Managed to find one who does but he insists on engine either on the boat in water or in a test tank (reason given was that engine needs to be properly ran for assessment ). So I ask him to do a basic compression test and a visual inspection and I might take a gamble as long as the block is good, around 135 I've been told. The reason of this post is how does max engine weigh and max hp relate on a boat? The max engine weigh I can understand, if the ob is too heavy it might flip the boat, but does the max hp rule apply if engine is within the max weigh but with too much hp? On my boat I'd been told max hp is 135 but even the importer doesn't know its max engione weigh. Rang a few chandleries and been told most 150 weigh around 180-195kg. The Quicksilver pilothouse 500 which is very much alike my boat but shorter by a foot has max weigh at 180kg but max power at 75. (I have a sneaky suspection that the Beneateau, Octeaue (?) and Jeanneau all uses the same hull as mine). I can see a couple of 150+ engine at 2500-3000 which I know are 180kg. Can I use them provided I don't use full throttle or not? One of the guy even claimed he uses his 200 v6 on a 17 dory which I thought was impossible.

I'm pretty sure (99.99%) that the short range radio course is for life and you will always have it. However, the boat licence is renewable annually and if you ley it lapsed more than 2 (may be 3) years you lose it and have to apply for another one. I gpt my cert back in April and I'd already forgotten most of the course ...... at leaast I think I still know how to send a mayday. The noise is more of hissing but also crackling, there would be someone speak (very) once in a while but the seq buttom doesn't help much. Anyway there's no way of trying it now, as it was taken off the boat last week and won't be fitted for a few more week.

Seriously, how busy is C16? On the occasions I'd been out, I'd only ever heard a couple of transmitions each time and I switch it off after about 1/2 hour cos the back ground noise bugged me too much.

I support it as long as it's for the good of fishing. However, I can't but think much of the fee will be swallowed up by pen pushers, computer systems meant to take care of it but over budget and useless. And what about the cost of employing people to police it? What will we get in return? Unlike it is the case with rivers where the EA takes care of footpaths, cleaning/clearing rivers and streams, in some cases restocking fish. I doubt very much there will be more or safer slipways, cleaner water, restocking the fish. We fishermen pay

Mike, another senior moment, perhaps?! Welcome to the forum and have lots of fun.

I'd seen them coming back to Lymington and they are like greased lighting, bloody fast!!!!!

What? No photos?

Do I need a stern light if I already have a white all round light at the top?

Martin put up a web addy for wrecks in the south, try this http://www.pbsbac.co.uk/forum/index.php?showtopic=820 There are a few wrecks in the westen solent but I was told most of them are fished out.

Done it....... with help from my mate who's a mechanic Apparently I was doing everything right except I wasn't banging it hard enough with the hammer.

How about making them in wood and then paint them with epoxy paint?! They will then have a plasticky look and feel, and very cheap.

I've never seen them about either, but I've been thinking, some car tidy (size of an apron and fixed/tied to the back of front seats of cars to store kiddy stuff) are pretty small and are inexpensive. Failing that get 2 piece of plastic sheet, and get the missus to sew row of pockets on then, like shoe tidy except a lot smaller.